Friday, December 19, 2008

Dammit! I just wrote a long post and then it got deleted.

Packing up the office to go home for Christmas. Because Hungarian exam period is six weeks rather than two, I'll have plenty with which to keep myself busy while home. Until I leave on Sunday, thought, I'm planning on taking things pretty easy - just Christmas shopping and hot wine and this paper that I'm supposed to be working on but which hasn't been going anywhere.

Nice things recently: unexpected carollers arriving at my door! Fulbright Christmas party! Lots of tasty food!

And of course plenty to look forward to. Happy holidays!

Thursday, December 11, 2008

1. I have my official student card! I am officially a student.

2. Here are some Hungarian proverbs. http://www.hungarotips.com/hungarian/proverb.html It is indicative I think that the first several are about how things never change.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

I got caught by the BKV (Hungarian transportation authorities) on the tram this morning. I use a student pass (I am a student, after all) but this morning a guy acutally took a careful look at my pass, and then asked to see my ID, and then pointed out that my ID was expired... The usual fee is 6000 ft., to be paid on the spot, but he said I could get away with only paying 3000. Suffice to say that I did not receive a reciept.

I recognize that complaining about the GREs ammounts to beating a dead horse, but I want to do it just a little. In the book I'm (semi-) frantically reading eighteen hours before the exam, this is what they say abou tthe analytical writing section:

"You probably have a sense of hwat score you need to be accepted by the graduate school of your choice. If you're seeking admission to Harvard's Ph.D. program in history, you're clearly aiming for a 5.5 or 6 [out of 6]. If you're aimin gfor a graduate program in a field that favors number-crunching over essay-writing -- mathematics or electrical engineering, for instance -- you clearly don't need to aim so high."

I'm glad that my entire field is reduced to number crunching!

Thursday, December 4, 2008

More Esztergom




It's hard to tell, but if you look carefully at the second photo you can see Tesco and Suzuki, the most shining accoutrements of the landscape.






Some of these are from a hike in Esztergom last Saturday and some are of my office. Because you are smart, I'll leave it to you to figure out which ones are which.

For BSMers

- Last night in the Hummus bar there was a table of four guys, average looking, definitely undergrads, definitely American, and not really radiating "social skills" or anything like that, so I said to myself, maybe this is my chance... And I was right! They were, in fact, BSMers! I figured I had to run into some of them sooner or later and I had gone three months without seeing any, so it was about time. Turns out two of them were Ed Dewey's roommates. Eep!

- Also, Marie, our language teacher from two years ago, goes to my Bikram yoga studio! I saw her in the changing room before my class. Yoga bridges devides of age, class and political systems.

- This isn't strictly for BSMers, but it's funny/enjoyable to be an American around ElTE for the following reasons:

1. Many people I have talked to were unaware that there were any foreign students at all (mainly because there weren't until this September), so they are excited to have that modicum of diversity.

2. Some students are interested in US universities and like talking to me as a result. We can also commiserate about the GRE, although everyone I know finished taking it before I started studying and could therefore appreciate its idiocy in full.

3. Professors assume (correctly) that the only reason an American would come to Hungary to do math would be that she is an alumna of BSM. (Peter Palfy, in his raspy, breathy voice: "You must be from BSM... Why else would someone from Penn-syl-vania come to Hungary?"

Basically every professor who taught there also teaches at ELTE, so the program is well-known. I think they think of the American students as their special pets or something. In fact, it is quite possible that next semester I will be studying Commutative Algebra with Jozsef Pelikan and p-groups with my buddy Peter Hermann (that's my stab at who would be teaching it, anyway). Hopefully Peter doesn't remember me x_0.

I think the professors think of BSMers like their special pets or something. While I was there they really seemed to like us, and everyone who hears that I was in BSM seems excited enough. On the one hand, compared to Hungarian students, many BSMers are mathematical five-year-olds... We just don't take as many math courses! On the other hand, Americans do quirky things like get enthusiastic about the material, attend class regularly and turn in homework. This must be a breath of fresh air for Hungarian professors.

PS: I am STILL a little bitter that Soulmate got a better grade in Algebra then I did -- I dragged that motherf*cker through three quarters of the course!

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Small language victories...

...like correctly using the imperative in class! "Ne beszelj teli szájjal!" Don't speak with your mouth full!

I am worried/frustrated about my Hungarian progress of late... Or, that I feel I'm not making any. I went more or less all of November without a teacher, which is no longer the case, but I'm worried that this new guy won't let me speak enough. He seems like he talks over me when I try to say things, which is not helpful. Clearly he already speaks Hungarian; I'm the one who needs to practice! We'll see where this goes.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Well, I just lost two hours of my life that I'm not getting back any time soon, but on the plus side I now have tickets to New York for Christmas! If you are in the area, we should meet up. In case anyone needed confirmation that international travel is hair-raising, I literally watched the prices go up while I tried to book a ticket.

Otherwise, the semester is finishing up. Last week I thought I could get away with only one exam, but it turns out now I have more like six. (One of my professors asked me if I wanted an exam or not, and then decided that I should probably have some sort of evaluation). Hopefully I can get two out of the way before I leave, and then study some while I'm home. This is less than ideal, but preferable to frantically scrambling to study after I get back here.

Otherwise, I don't know if I've mentioned this yet, but it really feels like Christmas!!! We have a poinsetta in the office.

Otherwise: I was following some blogs before but now I'm not? Does anyone else have this problem?

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Turkey Day from Magyarorszag! There is snow on the ground and mulled wine in the air. The Christmas market on Vorosmarty ter is also opened... I think I'll have to wander over some evening and check it out. Maybe eat some kurtoskalacs... mmmm.

As per usual, I am strangely unmotivated to do work. Hrm. I have to refresh my memory about trigonometry in higher dimensions. Although that assumes I knew something about it in the first place... Why do some days feel like everything falls into the category of "things I should know about but don't"?

Monday, November 24, 2008

It is wickedly cold here in Hungary. We were lucky insofar as our Indian summer lasted well into November, but (to mangle some idioms) the cows have come home to roost and finally I have to reconcile myself to the fact that it is actually winter and will be for the next few months. We even have a bit of snow, although not more than enough to merely dust the ground. It makes me want to drink spiced hot chocolate or some tasy forralt bor.

It's really shocking to remember every once in a while that the semester is ending in three weeks (!!!). I have a lot to take care of before that -- tying up loose ends with coursework, buying a plane ticket home, taking the GRE, figuring out exams... As to be expected, I vascillate between mortified-anxious-productive and calm-unmotivated. It's currently unclear to me what sort of exam schedule I'll have. I have seven courses, so I could theoretically have anywhere from one to seven exams; I'm hoping more for one than for seven.

Otherwise life is pretty good. Two weeks ago a couple of us went to Eger, a small town two or three hours away from Budapest by train. Although I know it mostly for the wine (which is plentiful, cheap, and delicious), the city is also famous for having turned back a Turkish invasion in the early 16th century. Unfortunately the Turks eventually won out, so Eger is also home to a lonely minaret, the northernmost standing example of Turkish architecture in Europe. Foolishly, I thought it would be a great idea to climb said minaret... I forgot that I am afraid of both small, enclosed spaces and heights. Great view of the city, though! You couldn't pay me to do it again.

Additionally, we ate enough game to last me until this time next year, so all in all I would consider the trip a sucess.

Up and coming plans: Friday I met a Hungarian who plays the bass in multiple folk bands. He suggested a place we should go Tuesday evening to hear some sweet tunes. I will fill you in on how that goes.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Budapest is changing faster than I like.

On the one hand, it's exciting. Despite the rapidly tanking economy, the abysmal political situation, the rampant (and growing?) nationalist extremism, and the apathy affecting the Hungarian youth, I do think in the next ten or fifteen years Hungary will be able to get on the euro and things will improve. Or, I have my fingers crossed.

Of course the downside to this is that Budapest will soon, I fear, lose much of the charm that draws me (I realize that this is bourgeois/politically incorrect/condescending/orientalizing or something else equally objectionable -- "charm" should in no way be linked to "economic stagnation.").

Case in point: in September, a new bar opened up on Nagymezo utca called Instant. Built on the Szimpla, dilapidated-house-qua-bar model, it is maybe two or three times the size. Somehow it managed to be instantaneously popular, and every time I've been it's been packed to the gills (no small feat considering it is two or three times Szimpla's size). It's cool, but in a... shiny way? As if the people who designed it knew it was cool and didn't need anyone else to tell them.

Anyway, a place I used to like called Sark has been closed since I've been here. Wandering around Klauzal ter last night, I noticed it was open. Exact same decor, exact same atmosphere, but when I asked the bartender (in Hungarian, no less) whether the bar was still called Sark he told me no -- it's now "Kis Instant."

Creepy! Creepy that two months ago a bar opened and became so MASSIVELY popular that it's now a brand taking over other, smaller bars. Shit.
This is easily the strangest thing I've read about in a long time.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magyarab

But it's on Wikipedia so it must be true, right?

CREEPY

While desperately trying to find someone who might pay for my education (I'm a woman! Studying math! In Eastern Europe! Come on, guys!) I came upon this:

http://www.swarthmore.edu/x19105.xml

That photo of me was definitely taken off facebook without my knowledge. Just a reminder that the internet isn't as private as you think it is!

Thursday, November 13, 2008

As always, my big plans for updating this blog have fallen flat upon reaching the keyboard. So, some bullet points:

- Last week Meredith visited (!!!!)Great to see her and great to see a couple of the "sights" around these parts that I would never actually make time for myself, i.e. the Synagogue (the biggest in Europe and, I would bet, maybe one of the top two or three in the world) and Statue Park, where somebody (the post-91 government?) thought to put all the creepy Communist statues which used to decorate the capital. I think the thought of preserving the statues rather than smashing them a good one, although I'm sure most of Budapest's current residents have a much more complicated relationship to them than I do not having grown up with them as features in my day-to-day landscape.

- While trying to read plaques Meredith and I figured out the word "munkássáag": it means "proletariet"!

- Saturday I gave a talk at ELTE on the American Liberal Arts Education based, as you might imagine, almost entirely on my personal experiences. It seemed well-recieved by the eight members of the office who were still around at 5:00 p.m. on the last day of the conference. The guy in charge of the preceedings had earned his PhD in the States, so he was pretty happy to hear someone else talk about the US educational system. I got asked which I though was harder, the Hungarian or the American system. The smart and elloquent answer which I give in retrospect is that both systems have their advantages and disadvantages, and the hardest thing is switching from one system to the other. I am much more aware of being a minority in math here, though.

- Exciting plans for this weekend include, but are not necessarily limited to, a trip to Eger! Pictures and post to follow.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

If you want to see some pictures, check out the Hungarian Fulbright website here: http://www.fulbright.hu/photo/index.html

There are at least two pictures of me making stupid faces! Can you find them?

Monday, November 10, 2008

Small German history student at dinner tonight:

"I know I'm being polemical, and I know I can't really understand, etc. etc., but in this day and age I don't understand the Hungarian fixation with Trianon! I mean, especially now that we're in the EU age... If you want to see the Hungarian community in Slovakia you just hop a bus over and say hi. No one even checks your passport."

Monday, November 3, 2008

Procrastination is a long, slippery slope

I'm back in my office after our ten-day fall break. Unlike my last time in Budapest, October 23rd came and went generally without incident, or at least none that I came across. Oktogon was flooded with fleets of police officers in riot gear and most of Andrássy was closed off. There were almost a dozen planned demonstrations (kindly emailed to us by the embassy), at least half of which were within twenty minutes of my flat, so I was grateful for the quiet.

Break was great! I didn't catch up on nearly as much work as planned (of course), but I did do some programming, some graph theory, a bit of algebra, some travelling, and some beer drinking, so I feel as though the time was well-spent.

Sorry-- I write so infrequently that sometimes it's hard for me to think of interesting ways of summing up my time.

Meredith is visiting! It's great to see her and hard to believe it's been five months. Among so many other things I'm glad also to have the chance to really show off my city to a friend, as well as to do some of those touristy things I've been postponing. Maybe I'll write about those.

Election tomorrow!!! I can't think about it too much. The embassy is throwing some hoo-hah party in a fancy hotel (like the riots, it is also conveniently located close to my flat) from seven until three. In my mind, though, the best part is the advertised "American-style buffet." Responses I get from foreign friends: "What is that going to be? Hamburgers? Maccaroni and cheese?" Hopefully also some over-cooked green beans with bacon or something. I couldn't be more excited!

Monday, October 20, 2008

Really mad!

So a public blog may or may not be the right place to vent my frustration, but here goes:

There is a math competition starting in Hungary on Wednesday and running through November 3rd. I didn't know about it until the other master's student mentioned it to me last Tuesday. Apparently when the professor in charge of us both had come by our office several times the previous week to see if Baldur was in, it was to tell him about the competition. Both of us agreed that it was strange for him not to have mentioned it to me as well, but I tried not to think about it too hard. I'm busy, the Putnam was a disaster, I've never liked math competitions, yadda yadda yadda.

Then this morning the German foreign exchange student asked me if I was participating and I got mad about it all over again, so I cornered the professor and asked him to fill me in. He did, though reluctantly. "The problems are very tough." "Yes, obviously, or it wouldn't be a very good math competition." Or, "You have to know a lot of math -- (rattling off a list of things he knows I don't know anything about) and be quite clever."

So he made a judgement call about my background and my intelligence! Great.

The most irritating thing about this is that I really do hate math competitions and that he is right insofar as I'm not familiar with a lot of stuff that would be necessary to do well. Nonetheless, I don't appreciate getting the edited version of events, you know? I really, really hate this aspect of math.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

AHHHH!

The internet saga continues -- when I got home last night I was unable to check my email or load youtube. Apparently some guys caught on to our unprotected wireless internet and have started helping themselves. If anyone knows how to set up a secure network, please help! We could probably go back on the wired internet, but it would be a hassle.

Other than that... Things are really good! Since my hump maybe three weeks ago I've been enjoying myself quite a lot. As usual, there never seems to be enough time to get all my work done, and graph theory problem session continues to be more painful than not, but that's more or routine by now. I enjoy the work I'm doing, and (this is exciting) I think I have accidentally landed myself some discrete math/experimental computer science research. Sweet!

Here is a poll: is being angry at the extent to which math is still a boys club in and of itself a good reason to get a PhD and teach? I am thinking yes.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Hike in the Borzsony


Me and my absentee ballot. Here's to not not having your vote matter!


Saturday I went on a hike through the Borzsony mountains with maybe thirteen other math students. It looked suspiciously like the Crum, although maybe we took the wrong path because we never made it to Lang.



A group photo. Fortunately things went smoothly and we left with as many people as we started with.



The view along the way was pretty great.









Tamas and Marci (?), two of the trip's organizers.


Some ruins, presumably from a castle. It's hard to see but there's grass on the top of the largest column. We played some frisbee here. I also heard one young boy say to his brother, "Nagyon csunya vagy!" which is more or less the equivalent of "you're a big dummy-head." I was pleased that my Hungarian proficiency approximated that of a three-year-old.



I thought the ruins would be the end of the trip -- little did I know this was still to come.

Wine festival musicians and Pecs



















Friday, October 10, 2008

Now that I'm no longer hob-nobbing with the late-night, coffee-chugging McCabe die-hards and instead studying in a comfortable couch in my living room, I find myself reverting to my early to bed, early to rise high school habits of yore. Today I was up at six thirty for a full two and a half hours of productivity before showering and leaving for class!

The weather here in magyarorszag has swung back to sunny and pleasant after two weeks of unbearable cold (I had to use the heat at night!). Unsurprisingly it makes and enormous difference in my mood. If we're lucky this might last through the end of the month, although I'm not getting my hopes up.

Classes are going well. I'm taking seven, which together makes for twelve hours of class, give or take. Hungarian class and my now-standard weekly meeting with my graph theory profesor make for four more -- it almost feels like Swarthmore! It's hard for me to guage how standard a load like this would be. Initially my official advisor (as opposed to my de facto advisor) thought that six would be fine, but I've talked to Hungarian students who say they have closer to thirty hours a week (!). One friend said she had class five days a week but skipped several of her larger lectures. All in all, though, I think people are pretty busy.

Tuesday in class I was passed a note about a hiking trip this Saturday being organised by some Hungarian students, so after six weeks I might finally get to know some of my classmates! It means I'll have to pass on an opera that some Fulbrighters are going to in the morning (with a real live opera singer, no less!) and potentially the subsquent Palinka and Kielbasa festival, but I think it's probably worth it. Also my mom tells me that physical activity is good for me.

I should write at some point about my trip last week to Pécs. Maybe after I upload my photos onto my computer.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

I think I've been adopted by my graph theory professor. He's really interested in speaking English. I had to move a meeting with him back from eleven to twelve and I got this response:

"Twelve is fine.

But postponing a meeting from eleven to twelve is pushing BACK?

A.F."

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Nothing terribly interesting to say at the moment, but I'm getting really frustrated by a problem (like so much of graph theory it seems very intuitive but I can't prove it. Then again, I think most problems that seem intuitively true really aren't at all.)

I think Baldur and I need to do something about this office. It's okay when we're both here, and even when we're just working I can pretend that I'm having a human interaction and am therefore not completely cut off from the rest of the world, but when I'm here alone and work is frustrating me the high, white walls seem very oppressive. I'm also achy after avoiding yoga for almost a week.

The weather finally came around on Sunday and I've been feeling a lot better, almost entirely as a result. Tomorrow Fulbright is whisking us away to Pécs for the evening -- apparently there's a wine festival? I'm missing two classes, which makes the good American student in me cringe, but I think a change of scenery will do me well.

I don't remember if I've said this yet, but whenever I look around I remember how happy I am to be here.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Noah and the Whale

Check this out

I feel like I started Hungary over again today, in a good way. For whatever reason (or for ten million reasons) the past week was really taxing, but hopefully the worst is over. I still have to register for classes by the end of September (read: in three days) and the professor I asked to help me with that referred me to the other MSc student who either doesn't check his gmail or doesn't want to respond to me, but hopefully that can get sorted out tomorrow.

I went to bed at eleven last night, woke up at nine and decided that I should go for a run on Margaret Island just because it's the first beautiful, sunny day we've had in two weeks. (Exercising for its own sake, like relaxation, is a novelty unknown to me) I successfully ran the entirety of the 5k loop and now I'm back home about to make lunch accompanied by fresh-squeezed orange juice. I hope I'm not turning into one of those obnoxiously healthy people, but I feel great right now. :D

(We don't have a juicer, so I'm just going to disassemble the orange and stab it with a fork.)

I've also started doing bikram yoga three times a week -- it's the one where you heat up the room to 105 degrees. I remember reading about celebrities doing it left, right and center and wondering why you would voluntarily exercise in an overheated room for an hour and a half, but I think I've hopped on the bandwagon. Admittedly there are days when the heat gets to you and everything touching your skin (including your own sweat) is a violation, but mostly it's very calming and meditative. Not only do I leave with a great high, but I've noticed precipitous changes in my body just in the past two weeks. I have muscles! I feel healthy! I might have to keep this up.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Good news

Hey, it turns out I'm not as stupid as I thought I was!

Background story: I was supposed to receive an email from a professor telling me what to read and what problems to do for a meeting on Friday. Instead I heard nothing, sent an email, still heard nothing, and therefore showed up 100% clueless instead of 100% brilliant and prepared. Turns out he was sending things to the ELTE email I didn't even know I had.

We changed our meeting to Tuesday and again I found myself without any emails... I thought I was going crazy (I checked my inbox about a hundred times) but the professor (who is also a tech head?) looked into it and apparently he set up the account wrong! It feels good to have one very small thing figured out.

Also I have an ELTE library card. I checked out my first book today :D
Today was a good day, I think, for battling bureaucracy. Well, no day is really all that great for it, but I was pretty productive.

- 8 to 10, class

- 10 to 11, emotional hour where I thought I almost cried but didn't maybe four or five times. There was a line a mile long in front of the registrar's office; I was too scared and emotional to go in alone; my professor mentor told me she couldn't help; I can't receive email at my ELTE address; I have to go to a professor tomorrow and tell him for the second time in four days that I didn't do any work because I didn't get the email; my math problems are really, really difficult and I can't figure them out; I don't have any students here to ask for help yet; I haven't talked to anyone outside of the country in over a week, I'm really lonely, and I have way too much going on right now to dump on one of the other Fulbrighters, as nice as they are.

- BUT at 11:00 I toughed up, went to the registrar, and got my paperwork sorted out there.

- 11:45 I try and check out a book at ELTE's library using a letter typed up by a professor of mine on Friday stating (I think) that I really was a student and that I will have a card at some point, but I didn't have one right at the moment... Or something like that. This didn't go over very well, and when one of the librarians disappeared and wasn't back in fifteen minutes I decided to leave and try it again later with a real student card.

- 12:00 to 12:30 I ate and felt a little better

- 12:30 to 1:30 I went to ELTE's other office and got a temporary student card. There was a small hiccup when I realized that I hadn't brought the requisite two photos, but I was able to run home, pick them up and hurry back just in time for my number to be called. I'm really part of the univeristy now! This also means I can get onto the student system.

With that out of the way I went around the corner to the Renyi Institute. A quick email to Deszo (head of BSM/member of the Renyi Institute/my landlord two years ago) meant I was able to register for the library (you need to be sponsored). Unfortunately they didn't have either of their two copies of the book I wanted, even though their online catalogue says one of them is in.

After that I paid for my student card at the post office (instead of needlessly putting it off for days and days), bought a planner (like everything else so far, this was approximately ten times more difficult than you would think it would be), and went into our local district office to try and explain to the woman there that my landlady thought she had found a problem with an official document I need for my residence permit. To figure out this last hiccup I had to call my landlady and have her talk to the woman behind the desk, but apparently there was no problem after all! Great.

So now I've managed to do everything today except make food and do my homework. Suprising what gets put off until last...

Thursday, September 18, 2008

In Hungary, or at least in Budapest, all protesters are required to get a protesting permit from the government. I'm now on the US Embassy's mailing list, so I get emails detailing protests like the following:

" The three events planned for September 20 are:

(1) Hungarian Charta

This group will march from Clark Adam Square (Buda side circle at the end of the Chain Bridge) to Kossuth Square (Parliament). The rally's purpose is to voice concern over increased discrimination, racism, and violence against the community. Participants in this event will include PM Gyurcsány, Speaker of Parliament Szili, and Budapest Mayor Demszky. Up to 10,000 persons are expected to participate. The event begins at Clark Adam Square at 1400 hours - the march to Kossuth Square begins at 1500 hours - the event in Kossuth Square until 1730 hours.

(2) Roma Community

The National Roma Authority is organizing a march from the Olympic park (in Pest just south of the Margit Bridge) to Kossuth Square (Parliament) to protest anti-Roma incidents committed by far right extremist organizations. Up to 5,000 persons are expected to participate. The event will begin at 1300 hours at the Olympic Park - the march to Kossuth Square begins at 1600 hours - events in Kossuth Square until 1800 hours.

(3) Jobbik, Youth of 64 Counties, Hungarian National Committee 2006, and the Hungarian Self Defense Movement

These groups will protest the Hungarian Government and conduct a tribute to "victims of communism and Roma crimes." This event will be led by several persons who have organized prior anti-government demonstrations that have turned violent. Up to 1,500 persons are expected to participate. This event will begin at Heroes' Square at 1400 hours - the march to Szabadság Square begins at 1700 hours - events in Szabadság Square until 2100 hours."

- First, I like that rallies (1) and (2), while seemingly sharing the same aims, are occurring separately. Note the government's involvement in the first one rather than the second.

- One of the other Fulbrighters is doing his project on Roma inclusion. Am I the only one who thinks it's funny to suggest he join rally (2) for research purposes?

- Finally, I hope that rallies (2) and (3) don't accidentally run into each other. But they would probably both want to beat up rally (1).

(3) Just goes to illustrate the absurdity of far-right organizations -- lumping together "Communist" and "Roma"? The Roma are a very sensitive issue here, in a way that's hard for an American to understand. I'm trying to find a way of mentally phrasing the issue so as to make it moderately comparable to minority issues in the states, but that might be a lost cause [for example, try to imagine a protest specifically targeting a minority group. It happens, but this overtly? And in not un-mainstream politics?]. It's interesting that my friend the English teacher has noted the reverse in Hungarian students; that is, they are pretty shocked about slavery etc., but when you bring up the Roma the kids can't see any similarities.

Illegalis!

After perusing M's blog (http://auraticoutmoded.wordpress.com/) I feel a bit remiss about my absence in the blogsphere, but I shall do my best to remedy that in the future.

What is new? My classes are *almost* sorted out. For one reading course I am missing a textbook and a regular time to meet; for the other I have both but I lack any assignments, despite the fact that I'm supposed to go in and meet with the professor tomorrow at ten. [After setting the time I realized that I should have as few Friday classes as possible -- Fulbright takes us out once a month on Fridays -- so I might try and get that moved so as to skip as few classes as possible] I have another class (taught by a German woman doing her CS postdoc. Her virtual native fluency is refreshing) without a time set... It might also be Friday, unfortunately. She wanted to start this week but I haven't heard from her yet.

Getting back into the work grove is challenging, by which I mean I have yet to do it. I tried on Monday to lock myself in my office (literally) and read over some notes. I did -- which isn't to say that I understood them much better -- and I also napped on my floor, which made the place seem more like home. Maybe I should get a garish orange carpet, too.

Apart from school, I spent three hours yesterday doing part I of becoming a legal resident. It was pretty typical bureaucracy, appropriately complicated by the fact that in the entire office maybe two people spoke English. To me this would seem counter-intuitive for an office set up specifically to deal with foreigners, but who am I to judge? I thought the woman pushing my papers was going to cut me when she looked in my passport. Regulations were changed in January, so I didn't have to get a multiple re-entry visa, and apparently my passport wasn't stamped very well in the airport, so they couldn't find any record of my entry into the country. My documents were man-handled and there was a lot of sighing and angry Hungarian (I caught the word "illegális"), but in the end they just had me sign an affidavit. I laughed to myself thinking that I was probably the most benign illegal alien ever ("I just want to study and inject money into your economy!").

When I told my professor about this later he got very upset and found a PhD student to go back with me next week for round two.

A funny thing I've noticed about some Hungarians (namely this professor) is that their emails come across as very terse and formal, but this is by no means a reflection of their demeanor in person. I talked to Judit (Hungarian now ex-girlfriend of another Fulbrighter. She goes to ELTE as well, so we've been hanging out. She's super sweet!) about it and she said, "Yes. I read emails from Americans and they are like love letters! So long and detailed."

Other than that, my Hungarian as a whole is making little progress, but my store of dirty words grows greater every day. I also learned how to say "What is the difference between __ and __." The word for difference is különbség, and "ség" is not to be confused with "segg," which sounds pretty similar to an American but means ass. Some day when I'm feeling punchy I'll intentionally mispronounce the question just to get a rise.

Last night in Szimpla I was hanging out with some Hungarians and we started talking to this Irish vet student.
Irish guy: You speak really good English!
Me: Thanks! I'm American.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Things I saw while walking around

1. "Tattoo de Sade," a tattoo parlour decorated with screaming vampires.

2. A head shop complete with a book in the window entitled "The Cannibible Collective," appropriately decorated with little marajuana leaves.

3. A rockabilly store! With sweet clothes that are too small for me!

Week 2.5

After the end of my first week of classes I've decided that this might actually be the most difficult "year off" I could have possibly concocted, perhaps short of pulling a John Petkun and joining the marines. I guess I could have hit my head against a brick wall for nine months, but that probably wouldn't have merited government sponsorship.

While ELTE's website eagerly boasts of the dozens of English-language programs availible to foreign students (BSc's! MSc's! PhD's!), in practice I am one of the first two students to ever try this out, at least in the math department. (The other is Baldur, a comically awkward fellow approximately my age from Iceland) My classes this semester were chosen from the ten courses listed as being taught in English(1). Since half were thrown out because I lacked the appropriate background, course selection itself was mercifully easy. Additionally, I'll be doing quite a bit of learning on my own.

I have to introduce myelf to each of the professors and explain that yes, I am one of the problematic foreign students (egy külföldi diák) and yes, I don't speak enough Hungarian to follow a lecture. Fortunately the other guy is in two of my classes, so it's not always just my fault that everyone else is forced to follow a topic in a second (third? fourth?) language.

On the bright side, everyone I've talked to so far has been helpful, and most have been fairly enthusiastic. As I mentioned earlier, as a native speaker of English I am a rare and exotic commodity. One of my professors (who I've definitely heard of before, although I don't know when) came up to Baldur and me after class and asked us how we thought things went and how we ended up at ELTE. He listened to Baldur's explaination and then said to me, "You must have been BSM. The only way someone from Penn-syl-vania comes to ELTE is from BSM." Another professor, who initially helped me out in the fall, talked to me in her office for a while to figure out classes, see how things were going and so forth. As I getting ready to go she said, "And if you have any other problems, you should come to me. How old are you? Twenty-one? Right between my children. If you have any personal problems, you should come to me."

One of the perks of being a proper student is that the two of us get an office! The math building itself is a bit grim, and I would rather not spend a zillion hours here, but it will be really great to have a quiet place to sit down and work. It even has a computer, hence the current post.

In other news, for three glorious days we had wired internet in the flat, although everything got screwed up when we tried to install the wireless and now we're back to square one. I think I might call my dad tomorrow to see if he can get things sorted out. I haven't cried about it, though, or any other part of settling in, so I think I'm doing pretty well.

1. To be fair to ELTE, this is partly because I didn't actually tell them I was coming until May or June, and then it was unclear whether or not I would actually register as a student...

Monday, September 8, 2008

Classes, day one

My first class of the year was eight a.m. this morning. It seemed off to a rocky start when I spoke to the professor in English and his response was to look shocked and bug out his eyes, but after that things were better. The thing about this purported English-language program I'm in is that some classes are listed as being taught in English, but apparently what ends up happening is that for lack of any English-speakers they are generally taught in Hungarian. I'm hesitant to have an entire course taught in English for my benefit (or, semi-hesitant, considering the university advertises my degree and I am paying tuition), but the professor today was very kind and assured me that it would be good for the students. The material itself was all stuff I'd encountered before, although that will last probably until Friday. The other students in the course are in a very rigid program, and therefore have similar backgrounds, so I have a bit of catch-up to do.

It's funny, and this isn't true of everyone I've met, but being a native English speaker seems to give me in the eyes of some voodoo powers. (Very similar to telling artists that you study math, actually). It's strange to be a feared authority in a subject just in virtue of my upbringing.

My professor from this morning is writing an English-language graph theory text. He's going to send it to me for my benefit and I offered to edit it. That would be a cool experience! Maybe I could get listed in the credits.

The disadvantage of being the token English-speaker is that I stick out like a sore thumb and therefore feel even more of a need than I might usually to prove that I'm intellectually up to snuff. Combine this with being female and it adds up to no fucking around for me, I think.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Hurredly, from an internet cafe

Lacking internet in my flat (like everything these days, it's a long story), I started writing this post from the Castro Bistro... I'm now in an expensive (albeit conveniently 24-hour) internet cafe, so this might be fast.

The last four days were eaten up by Fulbright orientation, in a good way. They packed out time with sightseeing, lectures, and extravagent three-course (and booze-soaked) meals, so I certainly could have done worse things with my days. Most of the lectures were pretty interesting (history and current politics, for example) and others not so much (e.g. economics and US-Hungary cultural differences). Meeting the other Fulbrighters were great -- there are some really interesting projects here! I'm also forced to explain my project on a regular basis which is challenging, not least of all because I haven't really thought about it since October. The comission thought it was a good idea, though, so I shouldn't second-guess myself when it seems to come out wrong.

Unfortunately, likely as a result of my not sleeping very much, I think I'm coming down with something. Hopefully I can take it easy tonight and sleep it off.

Classes start Monday! Yikes.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Finally!

Sorry it's been so long since I've added anything here that wasn't a malicious and ham-handed attempt to trick you into watching my buddy Rick swear that he's never going to give you up. Warning you in advance, I think 4.5 days in Eastern Europe has already begun to affect my English -- with every passing day I slip more into the English-is-my-fifth-language-pidgin that is so common in these parts.

Long story short: the apartment I had found via Craigslist was, in fact, too good to be true (it's embarasing; I don't want to go into it), so I showed up in Budapest Wednesday afternoon homeless. Fortune was on my side and I managed to lug my crap (more than my body weight in luggage -- it all seemed necessary at the time) around the corner to a hole-in-the-wall bar/internet cafe, where the three middle-aged men patronizing the establishment at three p.m. got a friendly laugh at my expense.

I found a hostel where I stayed for two nights, accompanied by the random anglophone human detritus that tends to cluster in such places. My companions were two Australian professional-traveler types, one of whom has the Southern Cross tattooed under his right arm ("Never get tattoos when you're drunk."), two Brittish girls who must have been in their late teens, and a Hungarian who had grown up in Germany and who played online chess in the common room.

That was followed by two nights at the flat of a fellow Fulbrighter and two days of apartment hunting followed by an impulsive decision this morning to take the fourth place I looked at. I'm worried -- not least of all because I made this decision based on my other decision to room with a Mexican women (also a student) who I met via Craigslist and know only through email -- and probably will not feel okay until my life settles down in the next two weeks or so.

Things are stressful, to say the least. Tomorrow I meet with my university contact, plan my classes and haggle my tuition (finally playing the "only staying for a year card" I've kept to myself until this point). I also have to call two people and explain that I'm no longer looking for apartments. Tuesday Fulbright orientation starts, meaning I'll be occupied and incommunicado for 12+ hours a day. Sunday my roommate comes; I went ahead and closed on an apartment without her 110% support, so I hope she'll like it as much as I did. Real classes start for me the following Monday. It doesn't help that the internet in my place isn't up and running yet, or that I just forked over 60% of my month's stipend as a deposite. I hope everything sorts itself out.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Rick Roll'd!

Sorry! I promise that this will be a legit blog in a couple of months, but until then... I couldn't resist!